The Road Not Taken to the Wilderness Church – An Adventure in Inari

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By jeroen

Pielpajärvi Wilderness Church
Pielpajärvi Wilderness Church

Sometimes, the destination isn’t where the story ends, but just an excuse for the journey. My trip to the Wilderness Church in Inari was one of those adventures. With the promise of a church I never reached, but a journey that was worth every step.

The Quest Begins

The plan was simple: the Wilderness Church, just 4.5 km from the car park according to the tourist route. But where’s the adventure in following the beaten path? No thanks. After some research, I found an alternative route: a gravel road leading to a 6 km hike. Perfect for an adventurer with an overlander, I thought. But, of course… the adventure would soon take an unexpected turn.

Obstacles Along the Way

Upon arrival, the gravel road was blocked off, with a barrier set up over 22 km from my destination. Strangely, there were inhabited houses behind the barrier. How those people got there? A mystery in itself. But I wasn’t deterred. Backpack on, bear bell attached(how wait a bear bell?!….yes, a bear bell! There are bears around here, and better too many warnings than too few), and off I went.

Nature Calls

The path was one of constant surprises. Piles of deliberately burned trees – possibly a local method for charcoal-making – filled the air with a smoky scent. But the real enchantment began when the trail disappeared beneath my feet. I was drawn into the tundra by the irresistible beauty of the wilderness. The grey weather added an extra mystical touch to everything.

A Reluctant Decision

After 17 km of walking in this rugged paradise, I decided to turn back. I was close, but not close enough. And with another 17 km to go, returning was the sensible choice. Five hours after setting out, I reached my car, just as twilight set in.

Reflection

I didn’t see the Wilderness Church, but I discovered a stunning piece of tundra that Inari is rich in. I could’ve sat there for hours, listening to the sounds of nature and soaking in the pure beauty. This landscape had something magical about it, something I’d normally find dull, but here, deep in the wilderness, I found an unexpected peace.

Advice for Fellow Travelers

For those who truly want to reach the church, I recommend the tourist route. The path I took is difficult, and the risk of going off course is high. Always ask for a map and advice (due to weather and forestry) from the tourist office before embarking on such an adventure. But for those who prefer luxury after a day in the wild, the Wilderness Hotel seems like a great place to wrap up the experience, especially for travelling couples. At least judging by the photos and reviews. And in winter, don’t miss the 1000-star overnight stay in the ‘Aurora Cabin’!

Conclusion

My journey to the Wilderness Church became the journey into the wilderness itself. And that was more than enough. For adventurers, overlanders, hikers, cyclists, and motorcyclists who embrace the unknown, Inari has something magical to offer. Come and experience it for yourself, and who knows, maybe you’ll find your own unreachable church somewhere along a forgotten path.

Is it Accessible for Overlanders, Campers, and Hikers?

When I approached the car park for the Wilderness Church in September 2019, it felt like I’d received an exclusive VIP invite to a party no one else knew about. Seriously, it was emptier than a supermarket during a football final. Pre-COVID, of course! Back when we still thought “social distancing” meant you weren’t invited to the neighbourhood party. But anyway, this wasn’t my starting point, by the way. The Google Maps link below is for the car park where the official hike begins.

As for that mysterious gravel road – let me tell you, sharing it here makes as much sense as putting socks on after your shoes. That road is as blocked off as my fridge during a diet. But no worries, there’s an official parking area big enough to host a rock concert, a solo overnight stay with no one else in sight could be possible.

And yes, looking at the photos, you’d think the Wilderness Church is the hotspot for Instagram weddings. But beware, the path can turn into a mud-wrestling arena in the rainy season. Keep in mind, you may have to slog through the mud while dodging a group of selfie-obsessed tourists who’ve just discovered what ‘nature’ means.

Oh, and for the adventurous hiking campers among us: there’s a massive grass field between the Wilderness Church and the Wilderness Cabin where you can apparently set up your tent. But before you unleash your inner Bear Grylls, double-check with the local authorities – you don’t want to wake up with an angry park ranger at your tent asking if you’d like to pay tourist tax!

Nerdy Deep Dive into the Wilderness of Inari and the Pielpajärvi Wilderness Church

 

The wilderness of Inari, an untouched refuge in the far north of Finland, captivates with its rugged, untamed beauty. This region is covered in endless boreal forests, crisscrossed by winding rivers and vast wetlands, where silence reigns except for the whispers of nature. Wildlife here is rich and diverse, ranging from brown bears and wolves to the stately moose and sly wolverines. The northern lights in winter amplify the magic of Inari, while the midnight sun in summer casts an otherworldly glow over the landscapes.

Pielpajärvi Wilderness Church

A historical monument deeply rooted in the culture of the region, the Pielpajärvi Wilderness Church was originally built in 1760 as the winter church for Inari. It served as a spiritual centre where the Sámi people gathered during the cold months. The church is one of the oldest buildings in Northern Lapland and is still used for special services during Easter and Midsummer, and is a beloved location for weddings. Reaching the church is an adventure in itself; in summer, it’s accessible via a 5 km hiking trail or by boat, and in winter, it’s reached by skis or snowmobile.

These places, both the wilderness and the church, together form a unique window into a world where time seems to move differently, and where the bond between nature and culture is still deeply felt. It’s a destination that not only challenges the body with its rugged terrain and unpredictable weather but also nourishes the soul with its deep historical roots and breathtaking natural beauty.

Here’s a photo taken by Maasaak, available on Wikimedia.

Pielpajärvi Wilderness Church
wilderness church by Maasaak

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