Sometimes, you embark on journeys you’ll never forget. A hike where you stray from your plan, cross the tundra, and unexpectedly discover a gem much later.
That happened to me back in 2019 when I aimed for the Wilderness Church but ended up at Haapkoski Cabin one evening instead. And let me tell you, that was a stroke of pure luck.
After a solid 21 miles (34KM) of hiking, with my legs in protest and my stomach nearly going on strike, I needed to find a place to crash before darkness fully set in. Just before nightfall, I discovered an amazing spot by the water, not yet realizing the magical place I’d stumbled upon. The next morning, at first light, I ventured out to explore the locations described on a weathered wooden sign at the parking area… that cabin, the friendship mentioned on the board, it had to still be there, right? And sure enough, I discovered the beauty of Haapkoski—though it took a moment before I found the cabin. The view was so soothing, it felt like nature itself was giving me a nod, despite the lousy weather!
The cabin was a perfect blend of simplicity and functionality: a stove for warmth, a small window overlooking the water, a docking area for canoes, a wooden toilet, and even a spot for sorting your waste. But what really completed it was the stockpile of wood in a back lodge of the toilet. It was as if Mother Nature herself had put together a welcome package. Even in the rain, I could already hear the crackling of the wood in the stove in my mind. I knew I wanted to return here one day, that much was certain!
Fast forward to four years later.
I had solemnly promised my girlfriend I’d show her the far north, but I wisely kept quiet about Haapkoski. When we arrived, she immediately grabbed her phone to snap a photo/video – that was her “wow” reaction… I think many guys will recognize their partner doing the same. But I kept the ultimate surprise up my sleeve. We were just at the campsite, where I found it also good the first time not knowing any better, but the real “wow” she was yet to discover. I said I needed to quickly check something and headed off alone to scout out the cabin. I rushed to the cabin, but that rush made me pause – the cabin seemed further than I initially remembered. But the sprint there felt like a journey back in time. And thankfully, it was all still there: the stove, the wooden benches, and that sense of absolute tranquility.
I hurried back to the car as if I had a rocket booster in my ass ( Maybe it was the beans from the day before). My girlfriend looked at me like I’d lost my mind, but she let herself be swept along. Once at the cabin, she was utterly blown away. Jackpot—yep, that means tonight’s going to be special…(yes! you know what I mean)
I cooked a delicious meal while the crickets serenaded us and the water gently lapped against the shore. The sun set, painting the sky in hues of pink and orange, and we sat there on that wooden bench, soaking in everything around us. This was pure bliss – no filters, no pretense, just nature at its finest.
She naturally wanted to sleep in the cabin, but let’s be honest: our backs aren’t what they used to be. So, we opted for comfort in the overlander. But even that couldn’t diminish the magic of that evening. We laughed, talked, and savored a moment that felt just perfect.
Haapkoski Cabin is a place you don’t easily forget. For me, it was a reunion with an old friend, and for her, it was a breathtaking new discovery. That’s exactly what makes traveling so special: the unexpected, sharing unique places, and realizing that the most beautiful moments are often the simplest.
Haapkoski Cabin: accessible by boat? Bike? Camper? Overlander?…
If you think the Haapkoski Cabin is just an easy stop on your Scandinavian journey, think again (for an normal car/camper)! The initial part of the trip to the cabin might seem like a gentle invitation with branches softly scratching your vehicle – call it natural ‘pinstriping’ that comes free of charge. But don’t be fooled by the seemingly easy access road. Why?
As soon as you leave the paved road, the real adventure begins. The transition from the civilized world to the forest is brief but intense, with a slope that might make even the toughest overlanders hesitate. It might look so normal and peaceful that you think you could still take your grandfather’s Lada… however… even with my overlander, you hear the hitch kissing the ground – a kind of salute back to nature, or a plea for mercy, depending on your perspective.
(Especially when you turn off the forest road onto the paved road, it’s an awkward angle, and pickups already stick out a bit.)
Scattered throughout the forest are several nooks, perfect for a break with a view of the water. Well, ‘perfect’ if your overlander likes standing a bit askew – sleeping on a slope can be part of the charm, right? Camper owners, beware: this is not a spot for long vehicles with anything trailing behind the rear wheels. Unless you’re into introducing a new kind of extreme sport: extreme parking. And I actually advise against it for any camper that isn’t a bit higher off the ground! (if you notice that it can be a problem … drive backward back on the road)
The cabin itself is most easily accessible by boat (canoe or kayak), and that just happens to be the most stylish way to arrive. But no worries, if you’re not too keen on sailing, hiking is also a great option.
Haapkoski Cabin is the perfect spot to recharge and enjoy the simple offerings of Finnish nature. Simplicity, peace, and perhaps a few new scratches on your vehicle as souvenirs. What more could an adventurer ask for?
Nerdy Deep Dive into Haapkoski
Haapkoski Cabin: A Time Capsule and Refuge for Adventurers
Tucked deep in the vast wilderness of Finland, near Inari, lies Haapkoski Cabin, a place steeped in history and surrounded by the pristine nature of the Juutuanjoki River. Originally built in 1932 as a shelter for a water bailiff, this location has transformed into a public day cabin, accessible to kayakers, canoeists, and adventurers eager to experience the river’s beauty.
History and Origin
The Haapkoski Cabin was first established in 1932 and later, in 1960, moved from Ritakoski to its current location two kilometers upstream along the river. This relocation aimed to occupy a more strategic point along the Juutuanjoki, better serving fishermen and travelers with its facilities.
Current State and Accessibility
Accessing the cabin is not without its challenges; the path to the parking is rough (short but steep incline) and may be difficult for standard vehicles. Additionally, the trail to the cabin itself is rugged—if you see broken wooden walkways, you’re on the right path; these have been in place since my first visit in 2019 and likely much earlier. Despite this, the maintenance of the cabin and surrounding facilities, including toilets and waste sorting bins, is diligently upheld by enthusiasts and local authorities. It’s noteworthy that despite the lack of online promotion on official tourist sites, the cabin is well-maintained. This underscores its role as an essential stopover and rest spot for water enthusiasts. Strangely, the official Finnish tourist service has taken the location offline: https://www.luontoon.fi/haapakoskipaivatupa
Amenities and Features
Inside the wooden walls of Haapkoski Cabin, there’s a wood stove, table, and long benches that can serve as emergency sleeping spots if needed. Outside, there’s a fire pit and a group of tables for visitors to relax and enjoy nature. A nearby toilet and a wooden shed complete the amenities that provide visitors a comfortable experience during their adventures.
A Vivid Memory
In a 2001 interview, Reino Nikula recalled his visits in the ’60s, when he and a friend visited the hut. They met three men there, made coffee, and listened to stories about fishing at Antti’s Rock—a testament to the vibrant community that has existed around the hut. This is noted on the hut itself.
Final Thoughts
Haapkoski Cabin stands as a monument to Finnish outdoor life, a witness to stories and lives that have unfolded along the riverbank over the years. It offers a rare blend of solitude and community, making it a perfect destination for those who wish to experience the Finnish wilderness in a way that is both authentic and personal.