Let me take you back to my first experience. The sun hung low on the horizon, a typical Finnish evening where the light paints the sky in fiery colors. The official closing hour had passed, and although the Niittykahvila – the quaint café on the site – had closed its doors, I decided to linger. The evening sun lit the mist that slowly rose from the field, and the silhouettes of the peat heads – the Silent People – seemed almost to come to life in the twilight.
There’s something special about seeing these figures outside the hustle and bustle of the daytime. As night creeps closer and no one else is around, these silent figures take on an almost ghostly air. They stand there, with their clothes fluttering in the wind, as if they want to tell you something. And as the mist circles around their feet, it feels as if you become part of a living artwork.
For Campers or Overland:
ATTENTION! This location has a mega spacious gravel parking area, even space for buses and yes… your monstrous truck camper fits in effortlessly! In the morning, you can enjoy a cozy outdoor breakfast on the authentic benches, nicely sheltered (unless it’s open, then I would recommend ordering something local out of courtesy). Ideal for a stopover or a short wild camping session. And if you wait until it’s open, you can stuff yourself with the famous pancakes I’ve heard so much about. Let me know in the comments if they are really that legendary… Or if it became a tad too creepy at dusk and mist.
A nerdy Deep dive into ‘Hiljaisen Kansan Niittykahvila’:
‘The Silent People’ was created in 1988 by artist Reijo Kela as part of his performance art. The peat heads symbolize a free interpretation, although I once read somewhere that he drew his inspiration from the depopulation of the small villages in the High North, changing times, or – if you’re in the mood for something more mysterious – perhaps even something supernatural. Kela himself provides no answers. You are free to decide what these silent figures mean to you. One thing is certain: if you were to undress them, only a field full of crosses would remain. Spooky, right?
Now, you can visit them during the day, when the sunlight cheerfully dances on the field and you can enjoy a cup of traditional kettle coffee at the Niittykahvila café. Try the Finnish pancakes – oh boy, they are delicious! But if you, like me, are lucky enough to be there in the evening, when the sun paints the sky and the mist begins to rise, you get an experience that feels a bit like a spooky dream, but is also beautifully beautiful.
So, if you’re driving along Highway 5 between Suomussalmi and Kuusamo, don’t miss ‘The Silent People’. Whether you come for the artwork, the serene atmosphere, or just a good cup of coffee, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget – and who knows, maybe I’ll see you there at sunset… when the café is already closed and the silence of the evening prevails.
#Fact: Twice a year, ‘The Silent People’ get a different set of clothes suited to the season they must endure.
#ProTip: Don’t forget your camera! The colors of the evening sun combined with the mist provide photos that will definitely add some extra mystery to your Instagram feed. Or maybe you’ll share them… in silence.
More Info:
A Peaceful Stop at Hyrynsalmi Church, in the Shadow of the Great Story
Coming from the south, on your left you will pass this enchanting resting place near ‘Hiljaisen Kansan Niittykahvila’, where you can peacefully walk around and over the water.
On this route, you also discover the beautiful Hyrynsalmi Church. Built in 1786 and designed by Jacob Rijf, this church is known as one of the most significant wooden churches from the 18th century in Finland. The separate bell tower was erected in 1840. The altarpiece, painted by J.G. Hedman, dates from 1830. During World War II, the bodies of the fallen from the Battle of Suomussalmi were brought to this church, to be then sent back to their home parishes for burial. The church is one of the few buildings that remained standing when German troops burned the village during the Lapland War in 1944.